Tag Archives: fast fashion

A Quick Look at Prabal Gurung Collection for Target

12 Feb

Well, I was down at the local mall today, and had a chance to look at a number of pieces in the Prabal Gurung Collection for Target at my local Target.  I can’t say I was all that impressed.  Here’s why…..

After the snowstorm we had over the past weekend, I found it difficult to shop this collection.  The weather does not make me think of spring, and I’m not inspired by  the thought of buying something that’s going to sit in my closet for several months before I can wear it.  Then, as I expected, the clothes were quite small, even though they have women’s numbered sizes.   I may be tempted to try one of their size 16 outfits because I sincerely doubt a 14 will fit.  Yet I’m not all that impressed with the colors, prints, or cuts.  Prabal Gurung First Date Print dressThere’s a lot of neon yellow,  neon blue, neon orange (or is it red?)  The styles are *very* youthful–which, once again, says to me, an adult fashion enthusiast, that Target is not interested in having me buy their items for myself.

Yes, the collection–as many of Target’s other designer collaboration collections–tells me that my fashion dollar is only good if I’m spending it for my daughter, who will obviously pester the crap out of me to buy a dress in the First Date print, even though it’s made in a very cheap-feeling cotton/modal t-shirt material.

Maybe I could wear it as a summer beach cover-up, but I wouldn’t necessarily wear it on a date.

Overall, I’m totally turned off by the neon yellow that dominates this collection, and is all over the place.  It’s ugly, and not flattering on anyone.  Maybe on little kids, but not anyone over the age of 21.

I guess that’s what continues to disappoint me about Target: they do not seem interested in selling nice, affordable clothing to women. There was a time when Target was a great alternative to Sears and some other retailers.  It seems more and more that Target is heading the way of Old Navy or Wal-Mart, and will be, sadly, added to my “do not shop” list.

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UPDATE: Victoria’s Secret Joins Other Major Brands in Greenpeace effort to “Detox” fashion

22 Jan
The interior of a Victoria's Secret store in L...

Who knew underwear could be bad for your health?. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Strange how just the other day I wrote about how Victoria’s Secret (part of the Limited Brands family) was one of those companies that takes advantage of both forced child labor in cotton production and toxic manufacturing processes in their materials supply chain (esp. in China.)  Today, Greenpeace announces that Limited Brands will join with Uniqulo, Benetton, and a dozen or so other leading brands in a commitment to cleaning up the environment by detoxing their supply chains.

The action by Limited Brands comes after shout-outs from activists for the retailer to make its “ambassadors” proud to wear their garments by joining Greenpeace’s Detox campaign.  All 14 brands that are part of the Detox Fashion campaign plan for the detox to be complete by 2020 (seems like a long time to me…)

The biggest surprise to me, and probably to anyone else who read the announcement (and a follow-up on Refinery 29, )is that a hormone disrupting phthalates have been used in the manufacturing of VS underwear!   There are more than one kind of phthalate, and three have been banned in U.S. toy manufacturing, but it seems that nobody’s really looked at the use of these chemicals in fashion the way that Greenpeace has looked at them.   IMO, if phthalates are banned from children’s toys, well, it would stand to reason that they be banned from their use in underwear, donchathink??

Fast fashion brand Zara and Mango (one of JC Penney’s partner brands) are also part of the detox.

This is a good step forward towards fashion brands doing their part to clean up the environment.  But there are still many brands that need to join this effort….

Then there’s the cotton production problem too.  Well, guess one can’t really fault a company for at least doing something that is very much within its power to change.

Watch this video for more on Greenpeace’s Detox Fashion campaign

 

Fast Fashion Is Not Good For You, Your Wardrobe, or the Planet

21 Jan

Fast fashion stores–you know the ones I’m talking about–are making a lot of money off the misery of others and polluting practices of manufacturers.  You may think you’re getting a great buy on the newest looks, but it’s really a fool’s deal. Here’s why….

Forced Labor makes your clothes

Did you know that the U.S. Department of Homeland Security is conducting a preliminary investigation into the high possibility that forced child labor is being used in the production of organic and fair-trade cotton used by Victoria’s Secret? Limited Brands, the parent company of VS, isn’t a fast fashion retailer, which makes the investigation even more troubling. The fair-trade cotton producers are disputing the forced child labor claim, Bloomberg news is standing by its story, and has very good news sources. Even so, according to the International Labor Rights Forum, there are many countries in the Middle East and among the former Soviet republics that are using forced child labor.  Uzbekistan, one of the largest cotton producers for the fast fashion industry is also one of the largest exploiters of forced child labor.

Forced labor camps in Viet Nam use people who are arrested in drug sweeps, who may have just one positive urine test for drugs, or are seeking treatment for addiction to make your t-shirts, nylon jackets, tote bags, bamboo furniture, and more.  Their labor benefits the government, which makes big bucks from private held American and European companies.

Polluted River China

River polluted from untreated dyes and other garbage. Photo courtesy of styleandthestartup.com

Pollution from manufacturing

If forced child labor in cotton production isn’t bad enough, most of the clothing produced for fast fashion is manufactured in China, where pollution regulations are, basically, non-existent.  The Institute of Public and Environmental Affairs (IPE), which is a non-profit organization based in Beijing that monitors water and air pollution in China, issued a report in October 2012 that found several fashion manufacturers and finishers that supply big companies had substantial “deficiencies in the environmental management of supply chains in China”  The big companies include Disney, Polo Ralph Lauren, and Tommy Hilfiger.

The “deficiencies” include dumping untreated waste water (waste water from manufacturing process) as well as “air emissions issues.”

Back in the U.S., in the 1960′s and 1970′s regulations were set up to stop these sorts of water and air pollution problems.  Yes, it caused prices to go up on U.S. manufactured fashion goods.  But is it right to simply shift the pollution problem to another part of the globe?  Is “just as long as it’s not in my back yard” a good enough excuse to support the desire for cheap, disposable clothing?

Honestly, not in the long run.  The world is going to be around a whole lot longer than your crappy cheap jeans.

Waste disposal and economic issues at home

You may think you’re getting a “good buy” or that it’s “fun” to layer up a whole bunch of cheap raggedy-looking fast fashion pieces to make the semblance of high fashion style, but, in reality, all you look like is someone who’s been dumpster diving.  Not to mention that the stuff you bought a month ago may be headed to the dumpster after one washing.

From an economic perspective, this is what’s always been referred to as “penny wise and pound foolish.”  The illusion is that you’re spending less.  Sure, you may be spending less, but you are spending more often.  As a result, you are spending more over a period of time for fast fashion than you might if you spent a larger sum on good fashion less often.

It doesn’t take a government study for me to know this one.  I can see it in my own wardrobe.  I will usually browse at the beginning of a season, after I’ve made notes of what are the upcoming trends.  I’ve figured out the trends from fashion mags (which, by the way, I take to my local recycling center,) and I usually pick up trends that I have a sense will last more than one season.  Sure, there are times when I say “damn!  can’t wear that one after this season,” but as I’ve become more skilled and style savvy, there are less and less of those sorts of mistakes.   Or I make the mistake with a less costly investment–usually an item on sale– thus I feel I haven’t  lost all that much if I’ve only got one season’s wear out of an item.

Want more evidence of how fast fashion hurts you, your pocketbook, and your immediate environment, check out Elizabeth L. Cline’s Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion for some sobering stats and what we can do to change the fast fashion habit AND make our wardrobes much better through alterations and other clothing makeovers.  I’ll have more on my own wardrobe overhaul/ clothing makeover a subsequent post.

Sunday Editorial: Defining Modern Fashion by Yesterday’s Style

6 Jan
me in 2011.

me in NYC 2011.

As a rockabilly princess in the '80s

As a rockabilly princess in the ’80s

I knew something was totally off when, in September (the time of Back-to-School) fast-fashion retailer Forever 21 was showing horizontal stripe shirts, leggings, and boots as the Fall fashion trend.  Then, as I was reviewing the Spring-Summer 2013 shows, I noticed the Grunge look (one of my favorites) start to creep up on us like the ghost of Seattle bands past….

For sure, I thought, it’s me just getting old–seen it all, done it all, and what’s selling to the teens is the kind of stuff they see on Mom and Dad in pictures from their youth.  Is there anything really wrong with wanting to dress like your Mom and Dad?  I don’t know–I did it back in the rockabilly days in the 80′s.

Then again,in the 80′s I’d dressed a lot of different ways, depending on the music I was into.  That lasted most of the way into the 90′s.  Falling off the cliff of fashion into the realm of style seemed to be what all adults were supposed to do once we weren’t part of the fashion mag demographic….

But it’s been more than that.  Since the late 90′s there’s been a massive change in communications technologies.  The changes in our computers and our televisions and our telephones has been astounding and confounding.  Everyone, across all professions and sectors of the populace, has been touched by these changes that seem to some of us like science fiction come true  (come to think of it, even our science fiction isn’t what it used to be.)  Business models have been destabilized,  and the ability to pinpoint a trend is almost impossible because trends change at the speed of light.

Then it’s really no wonder, in the midst of communications confusion and business model failures,  that the changes in fashion have (perhaps) slowed their pace to something close to a  halt.  Nothing seems all that new–or what is indeed new on the runways is not meant to be worn outside on the street by the common woman, man, or entertainer. We have, instead, ironic facial hair, too-tight hipster pants, badly sewn fast fashion, child-like furry hats, crippling high heels (no, wait, we had those in the 70′s too,) and sites that try to sell us on the idea they are exclusive clubs offering us exclusive deals on exclusive fashion items (that somehow seem like fashion items we’d either never wear or have already worn in some other decade.)

What’s left, then?  What do we, the masses who don’t care to spend$500 on a $1200 dress that doesn’t come in our size anyway?  What will we wear in pictures, or remember of the ’00′s and the ’10′s of the 21-st century?  Will there be anything like the nostalgia for the look of this time the way we have nostalgia for those different decades of the 20th century?  What music will we remember, and will we still have friends who remember the same music?  Or will we all be dancing our own tunes, wearing our own ideas of whats fashion?  We may be taking a lot of pictures, loading them up to various social media sites, filtering through Instagram or the Next Big Thing to make them look nostalgic.  But it will be mostly a second-hand nostalgia, a sense of the 21st century, glazed with a 20th century patina.

Time stands still and moves forward.  A woman from Warhol’s Factory has a meaningful conversation with a boy who looks like Kurt Cobain while dancing to Lana Del Rey’s “Blue Velvet.”  The ghost of Buddy Holly talks on his smartphone to a hologram of  Johnny Ramone about the relevance of  three-chord progressions.

There’s a scene in the movie Looper, where Jeff Daniel’s character mocks the fashion style of Joseph Gordon Levitt’s character as coming from a century that the younger man has no idea of nor understanding about.  Given that Daniel’s character is supposed to come from a future where there’s time travel, and that the story itself takes place in the future,  what he says is something of a mind-fuck.  A character from the future knows more about the distant past than a character living in that current-day future.  Maybe that’s where we are right now:  that some of us–those of us who have the memory of the history of certain looks–can sit back and bust on the ones who are doomed to repeat them while wearing something from the decade we ourselves find most suitable, perhaps made by our own hands.   It’s a shame though that so many who are repeating those looks in their fashion lines are making beaucoup bucks off of those who don’t quite get how it’s all become some sort of  joke out of a Kurt Vonnegut novel.

This essay was inspired by What Will We Miss When It’s 2033? in the 1/4/13 New York Times’ Fashion & Style section.

Fall to Winter Fashion Trend: the Fur Vest

2 Nov

We started seeing the fur vest fashion trend in 2010 (if you don’t believe me, look here) but no matter how atrocious, it doesn’t want to go away.  What’s with this trend that it’s suck around for two seasons after it should have died an ignominious death?  Perhaps it’s the faux fur vest that’s helped the trend survive well past its prime.  Yet here it is again, in both pricey and not-so-pricey varieties:

A raccoon and silver fox vest from Cassini: $1,995. (Raccoon? can I bring in my own pelt??) (for more on high-end fur vests see this pictorial in Elle.com)

Faux Fur vest by Liz Claiborne for JC Penney: $50 (for more see JCPenney.com)

My take on this trend:  OH GOD MAKE IT STOP!!  This is the third year of this awful, awful trend that more than likely started back in the 60′s with Sonny and Cher…..

It wasn’t good back then, and it’s not good now. Why does it keep coming back? Is it because there are a lot of rich women in the cold cities across the country who don’t want to get attacked by PETA activists but still want to flaunt their riches in fur? And the faux versions are there for those of us who are not rich pretend that we are cavewomen? Please! Enough of the fur vest! Move on already! Give us something new–just not a new fur vest design. Stick a fork in it–it’s done.

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