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JCP axes CEO Ron Johnson: a consumer analysis of JCP’s six big branding mistakes

9 Apr

Stunning news today that JC Penney CEO Ron Johnson–former Apple Store retail whiz and former Target merch

JC Penney is one of the three department store...

JC Penney is one of the three department stores at the mall. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

executive–has been fired after causing a roughly 50 percent drop in JCP share price over the relatively short length of his tenure as CEO.   There’s so much, much more to this than just the drop in share price.  It’s also the purported damage that Johnson may have done to the brand with his innovative strategies that certainly did not fit the needs nor wants of the consumer.

Now, I was pretty sanguine about Johnson taking the helm of JCP, hoping that the brand would fill the gap left by Sears (which has become nothing more than a Land’s End store combined with an upscale K-Mart.   K-Mart now specializes in a particular kind of ghettowear typified by the Sofia Vergara collection….but I digress….)  I’d hoped they would give some slightly hipper, somewhat better quality clothing than I could find at Target or Kohl’s.  Yet Johnson made some key missteps that left consumers confused about pricing and about who among the various consumer groups JCP sought to lure.  Here are in, no particular order (except for the first mistake) are six consumer-observered ways that Johnson mucked up:

First Mistake: getting rid of coupons nixes our dopamine high.   Johnson completely forgot that to the American Consumer, a coupon is like bargaining.   Since we can’t haggle with merchants, we like them to give us a percentage off.  The American Consumer Sentiment is that the price on the tag is always too high and that the coupon is the vehicle by which we will get the fair price.   If we find a missing button, or a lipstick stain, or a ripped hem, we ask for an additional 10 percent off–and usually get it.  Register jockeys are allowed to give that much in percentage off for damages.   Like Pavlov’s Dogs, we salivate when the coupons come in the mail or email, and studies have shown we get a dopamine boost from getting that coupon deal.  With his “fair and square” pricing scheme, Johnson took away the dopamine high we get from shopping.  Bad, Ron Johnson! Bad! Bad!

Second Mistake: spurning the Alfred Dunner Crowd, neglecting Boomers & Gen X  Johnson wanted to court the next generation of retail shopper into the store, so he set up Sephora outlets, brought in brands like Mango and Buffalo jeans.   But that did not make the Alfred Dunner retiree crowd happy.  Some pundits have been saying that it was the Boomers that Johnson let down–but it’s really the Alfred Dunner crowd who relied on JC Penney for their wardrobe staples and drastically slashed grandbaby and teen clothes.  By courting the young hipster demographic, Johnson left out the Boomers, Gap-gen (those too young for Woodstock/Viet Nam and too old for tattoos) as well as Gen Xers (who now have their own families.)  The brands that are now being hyped by JCP–such as Cosabella and Pearl Georgina Chapman of  Marchesa, and others–are more towards the customer who will shop the I <3 Ronson line, even though they are being marketed as “women’s” clothing.  This is another Target-like strategy that alienates anyone over the age of 21.

Third Mistake:  Replicating Target in their marketing collateral  I hadn’t realized that Johnson was a Target exec because most of the early press around Johnson emphasized his stellar role with Apple.   But the problem with Johnson was his strong ties to Target’s re-branding and re-launch as a cool place to buy staple clothing and some stylish housewares.  He even brought in Michael Francis, the dude who was responsible for Target’s mega-successful whimsical family ads!! (Francis left after 8 disastrous months)  I remember how friends and I sat and looked at the ads and scratched our heads, wondering if these ads were all part of a new Target campaign–since Target had just made some big changes in their flagship stores to include groceries and designer collaborations– or if something else was brewing .  It took awhile for it to register that the ads were for a revamped JC Penney.  That lag-time in ad recognition did not help.

Fourth Mistake:  The Martha Stewart collaboration and subsequent lawsuit which is still unresolved.  Not that a collaboration with Martha is a bad thing.  It’s just that with Martha, one has to check everything twice, with an attorney, to make sure there’s no misunderstandings in the fine print.  Martha made the jump from K-Mart to Macy’s pretty smoothly (after she could see K-Mart going to the ghetto dogs,) but she hasn’t been happy with Macy’s.  I can’t blame her.  Her goods are treated like they are second-class, tucked behind other brands such as Ralph Lauren, Kitchen Aide, and Fiestaware.  She hasn’t been the stand-out at Macy’s, and JCP offered her the shop-within-a-shop idea that they’d pulled off with Sephora.  JCP did not, however, bank on Macy’s reading the fine print and perhaps re-interpreting it to their benefit.  The lawsuit has cost JCP dearly in money they don’t have to spend on lawsuits that might end up being “frivolous.”

Fifth Mistake:  Target-like design collaborations   I recently received an email from JCP announcing the launch of collaborations with Michael Graves and Jonathan Adler’s Happy Chic.  Not impressive for a number of reasons other than that these are design collaborations iterative of those Target had with the same designers.  While we won’t be able to purchase teakettles with little birds on them, or super cool luggage shaped like cello cases (both designed by Graves.  I have the suitcase) at JCP, we will get some other Graves designed housewares that resemble those from Target.  And might be just as cheaply made as those at Target.  Not all of Graves’ goods were good nor durable and turned out to be wastes of money.  As for Adler’s design esthetic:  can well call it American Teen-Ager?  I’m not impressed with the doo-dads, geegaws and various knickknacks that are being trotted out.  Target has cut back on the tchochkies  probably because most people are watching their pennies and might have shelves full of bric-a-brac already.  I don’t envision Adler’s stuff selling all that well.

Sixth Mistake:  Minimizing the brands that worked   What happened to Nicole Miller?  and Bisou-Bisou?  and Jones New York?   or the A.N.A. line?  These were great brands that offered very nice crossover career-wear for the 30-55 age group.  The Worthington and St. John’s Bay lines were also pushed to the side.  SJB offered very nice, better quality staples (tees, jeans, sweaters) than Target, K-Mart or Sears.  Worthington offered great wardrobe builders for anyone working the all-black retail or other service industry jobs.   But if part of the strategy was to move away from Jobwear and Casualwear,  what about the slightly upper-scale brands?  The only one that got its own shop was Liz Claiborne, and not a lot of the LC pieces seem all that exciting (I haven’t purchased any.)  Also, JCP seems to be doing away with petites and talls.  Bad, bad move.  Not everyone can afford to take a $40 pair of Joe Fresh trousers and have them altered–which is what’s needed for a petite such as myself.  JCP will lose me as a loyal customer if the only stuff I can find in the petites section are Alfred Dunners.

Most retailers are struggling to get that middle bracket of consumers–those 30-55 or 60–back into stores.  This demo has been neglected for quite a while, and has taken to shopping at specialty retailers like Chico’s or Ann Taylor Loft, or online.  This middle bracket also likes coupons because they’ve grown up with them (and are pretty well conditioned to getting them.)  Ron Johnson did very little to court this group, did a lot to alienate the retirees, and went after the young folks with a half-assed, iterative marketing strategy that completely backfired.   I liked shopping in the stores, but I enjoy taking my time–lots of my peers don’t have that kind of time, and can only go by what they are seeing in ads and getting in the mail.  Johnson may have been successful with Apple–it was one line of products that already had a strong brand and a carved market niche.   Adding up all the mistakes made at JCP, including hiring Michael Francis,  it appears that Johnson was trying to turn JCP into Target Redux.

Consumers didn’t need another Target–and that became evident with every step that Johnson took to change JCP.  We need a fresh JCP, with new styles that walk somewhere between the classic and the trendy,  and new designs that are more than dorm-style patterns and boastful bric-a-brac.  We need our weekly dopamine fix with “deals” that don’t scream “fire sale” but do give us the price we believe is “fair and square.”  So what if that price comes in a circular on a Wednesday with a coupon only good on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.  We are used to this pattern, and with over-scheduled kids and two working parents, we don’t have time to allocate to any new pricing schemes.

The JCP board has announced it will be bringing back former CEO Mike Ullman, who was resoundingly criticized by activist board member William Ackman. If anything, this may stop the hemorrhaging for now. Over the long haul though, JCP is going to have to come up with something that will lure the mommy and middle customers away from online and back into the stores, while stimulating the younger generation. This is a big, big job that will require someone who can think both old and new simultaneously. I don’t know if there’s that kind of creativity in the C-suite these days, but I will be following this next move on the part of JCP just as closely as I did the tenure of Ron Johnson. It’s probably the most exciting adventure story in retail these days.

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Melissa McCarthy demonstrates the perils of too-high high heels

9 Apr

Recently, I gave up wearing anything over a 4-inch heel.  And with good reason.  Said reason (or reasons) are aptly demonstrated by Melissa McCarthy in the opening monologue for this past week’s Saturday Night Live…..

Photo of curvy Swedish mannequins goes viral, people say “Hey! That’s NOT obese! That’s real!”

19 Mar
Size 12 and 16 mannequins in Swedish department store display

Size 12 and 16 mannequins on display in Swedish department store Ahlens

Perhaps you’ve seen this photo already.  A friend on Facebook posted it, or someone tweeted it, or it showed up somewhere else.  Apparently, this photo, of new mannequins in a Swedish department store, one a size 12 and one a size 16, is stimulating conversations all over a host of media platforms about whether these mannequins represent real women or if they are tacitly giving women permission to be obese.

It was originally thought that the mannequins were in an H & M store, but a spokesperson for H & M told media outlets that these were not in H & M stores.  If anyone’s ever shopped an H & M store recently, one would know that these mannequins are far too large to display any of the merchandise in H & M.

Further, they are not the first mannequins to be of a size or have dimensions that do not reflect the average mannequin size of 4 or 6 (American.)  A common sight in many malls, since at least 2004,  is the “big booty” mannequin form, also big booty Brailian formsknown as the Brazilian form, that display those tight-fitting, spandex loaded, street-style jeans.  The dimensions on these forms boast 24 inch waists and 39 inch hips/butt.

But the “big booty” form isn’t necessarily any more true to women’s proportions than the average size 4 or 6 department and clothing store mannequins.

Back to the Swedish mannequns….the photo above first appeared on the Women’s Rights News timeline on Facebook.  Among the 3,302 comments on the photo are discussions about whether or not the mannequins encourage obesity, whether or not they represent “real” women and commentary from naturally thin women who often express feeling put down by those of us who are not thin.  What is most interesting in the comments is the young man who says that women of that size are eating wrong foods and not exercising, hence are “fat,”  and the woman who suggests that women in the U.S. and Canada are “too fat” and are not of what is considered average size.

Now, the woman who commented about Americans being “too fat” compared to some of our European counterparts may have a point.  And I put huge emphasis on MAY, as even across Europe there is no agreement on what is or isn’t an average size woman.   However, the American perception of what is or isn’t “fat,” “overweight,” or “obese” continually fluctuates, and vanity sizing doesn’t help.  Depending on the manufacturer or designer, I know that my size can range anywhere from 12 to 16.  In vintage clothing, I might be an 18, 20, or 22, depending on the outfit (many times vintage evening wear was altered to fit the owner, so the size tag may not be the true indication of the actual size.)  So, some of us may think we are far smaller than we may have been in another American decade.

This isn’t our fault but the fault of fashion marketers who want to make us feel good when we buy their clothing–and studies have shown that vanity sizing pays off for them.  If anything contributes to our obesity–besides high calorie snacks, sodas, and processed foods–it’s the current state of vanity sizing.

Then again, some clothing manufacturers argue that vanity sizing is really meeting the expanding waistline demands of Americans.

Guess it’s really a chicken-egg argument…..

Still, it would be nice if we saw more mannequins that reflect the way we actually look.  Or if we stopped being so sensitive about mannequins in the first place.  Most of the stores I shop in use headless or faceless mannequins so that I don’t even notice the face or body, but look at the clothing.  What is perhaps more important is if our fashion magazines and our runway shows, where we see real people and not mannequins, reflect what the fashion buying public look like.

Then again, models were once called mannequins–before they were made out of plaster and fiberglass….

Are wigs making an honest to goodness comeback? or are they only for the well-to-do?

4 Mar

I remember wigs back in the ’60′s when I was a kid.  My sister–13 years my senior–had a whole bunch of them.  She’d by them at Bamberger’s wig department (in New Jersey, Bamberger’s later became Macy’s–and the wig department was Tovar Tresses) and at other stores too.  Wigs were a necessary and ubiquitous accessory if one wanted that big, big sexy 60′s

you can tease it, or bump it, but sometimes a girl needs a good fall to make Big Big 60's Hair

you can tease it, or bump it, but sometimes a girl needs a good fall to make Big Big 60′s Hair

hair.  Everyone wore them.  Raquel Welch, known for having some ginormous hair in the 60′s, admitted to wearing wigs and even started her own wig line, available through a lot of wig retailers both online and off.   Wigs were staples in the wardrobe of just about every young woman in the 1960s.

By the 1970′s, wigs had made their way to the deep discount stores, and lots of older women were also wearing them, mostly because the beauty standard for hair, which consisted of the weekly wash-and-set, complete with teasing, could be brutal on middle-aged hair.  Wigs became synonymous with hair loss and old age….

I’d always loved wigs, mostly because I’d loved watching my older sister wear them.  I thought they made her glamorous.  So, when I became a young adult in the 80′s, I bought myself a few wigs, and to  have that black bobbed dominatrix look when I didn’t want my beautiful wine-red pompadour.

Over the years, I’ve suffered with stress related hair loss and illness related hair loss (mostly from hypothyroidism,)  and a number of bad hair cuts, usually the product of a bad stylist who can’t deal with cowlicks in both front and back as well as thinness.  I kept my hair short for a long time because of this, and when I wanted long hair, I resorted to wigs.  Wigs, though, could be hot and uncomfortable–as I discovered when I tried to wear one on vacation in Florida a few years ago. ….

Yet according to an article in the Sunday Style section of the New York Times, wigs may be making a comeback for the average American woman.  As quoted in full in the article, New York-based commercial hairstylist Peter Gray believes women now opt for wigs out of  convenience–mostly to make things go a lot easier when confronted with the Very Bad Hair Day.

We’ve all had those days –  heck, as I sometimes like to say, I’m having a bad hair life.

A good wig, though–one that will look like your own hair, only a bit better–is rather costly.  There are lots and lots of synthetic hair wigs of all types, but they don’t quite measure up to human hair.  And unlike synthetic wigs, most human hair wigs will need some, if not full, styling.   So, the wig will need to be styled by someone who knows how to style wigs, not just your average hair cutter.  It may be hard to find someone who can style wigs, if you don’t live in an urban area, and if you don’t know where to look (the stylist might not be listed in the Yellow pages or even on Google.)

While it sounds like a super idea–have a wig or two of human hair on hand to wear on those days when you don’t feel like styling it, or when it’s just not doing what it should do–the cost-prohibitiveness of it might not make it a great option for us “everyday women.”

Then there’s the gossip factor.  Since wigs mostly have been associated with cancer patients and other catastrophic hair loss events, if one shows up wearing a wig that is slightly less than natural looking–say, a length far longer than natural–there may be some tongues-a-waggin’.  If you don’t care, or if you live in a place where fashion is actually fun and you can get away with wearing a wig as a fashion statement, by all means do!  Enjoy it!   We should all be able to change our appearance whenever we want without raising so many eyebrows.

 

Spring 2013 Trends: So, what’s with all the neon colors??

19 Feb

Well, if you’ve been to The Mall recently, you’ve noticed that the Spring clothing is starting to emerge.  Some of the upcoming trends that I talked about in January–such as emerald green–are starting to show up in some very interesting combinations (more in an upcoming post.)  HOWEVER, the most disturbing–and I mean major DISTURBING–trend is bloody awful neon colors!

WTF fashion industry?  Do I look like I work for a freakin’ road construction crew??  Who’s bright freakin’ idea was it to bring back a godawful fashion “trend” that was foisted upon us back in the ’80′s, thanks to a massive brain fart on the part of several new-in-the-day fashion designers?  I decided to scour the Ready-to-Wear runway shows from some of the biggest designers to see who we can hold responsible for the re-emergence of this fashion travesty….

First, for a Fashion refresher on What We Get in Our Malls: most of what we plebeian consumers get at our local not-so-upscale malls can sometimes be a hodgepodge of fast fashion for the teens and Alfred Dunner for the grandmoms.  In between we might have Coldwater Creek and Banana Republic, with the possibility of a few nice things cropping up in our local Kohl’s, Macy’s, or J.C. Penney (I usually bypass Sears, unless I’m looking for Lands End or retail workwear black staples.  The rest of their collections are pretty much just this side of K-Mart meh-wear.)  Some of the stuff we get in any of the stores I mentioned–that are not designer brand names like Ralph Lauren or Calvin Klein–is brought to us by brands that we might or might not recognize, and are designed by who-the-heck-knows…..

To try to pinpoint where all this neon came from, I scoured the Spring 2013 Ready-to-Wear collections of big name designers to figure out who the heck lost his/her mind in the design room.  From what I could see (and you can look for yourself at Style.com, most of the designs were great, lots of orange and navy from some designers, and lots of emerald green.  Those colors are indeed showing up, as are tropical and tribal prints.   From what I saw, before my eyeballs were about to be wrenched from my head, the biggest influence for neon is coming from Proenza Schouler (neon did not even figure into Pabal Gurung’s  Spring 2013 RTW collection, even though he blinded us with it in his Target capsule

Neon, and python, and prints, oh my!

Neon, and python, and prints, oh my!

collection.)  And the only reason I can see why some retailers could be swallowing this bright, ugly, fashion pill is that some of the current rock divas and actresses raved about it….

But I’d really like to see them wear it fo’ reelz….I bet they’d think twice.

It’s bad enough that retailers are plunking tutus down wherever there are girls’ departments, which makes it difficult for parents to try to stop their daughters from dressing like fairy princesses every day–but now they’re wanting the rest of us to look like glow-in-the-dark clowns who accompany the fairy princesses.

My sense is that somewhere,  there are some fashion buyers who believe this is a kind of techno street-style, influenced by the costume craziness of Tokyo (which, aside from the Electric Daisy Carnival, seems to be the only place that gets all neon costume crazy,) but my take on that way of thinking is that it is the province of those who spend their time on a particular street in one part of the world, and maybe haven’t read as many trend reports as I have.

The only thing that crosses my mind is that retailers are allowing their own 13-year-old kids to tell them what they like and want to see.  Or maybe some other groups of 13 to 18 year olds.  Or maybe there’s some weird belief that if they slap a designer’s name on it, or put a label from a much-loved retail brand on it that people will go for it, thinking that this is on trend and stylish.

When it is, in fact, nowhere near on trend nor stylish.  It’s not even street style. Maybe techno- rave style–but really?? Really???

Let’s all bypass the neon this spring and let it die a slow, painful, net loss incurring death in the deep-discount racks.

 

 

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