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JCP axes CEO Ron Johnson: a consumer analysis of JCP’s six big branding mistakes

9 Apr

Stunning news today that JC Penney CEO Ron Johnson–former Apple Store retail whiz and former Target merch

JC Penney is one of the three department store...

JC Penney is one of the three department stores at the mall. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

executive–has been fired after causing a roughly 50 percent drop in JCP share price over the relatively short length of his tenure as CEO.   There’s so much, much more to this than just the drop in share price.  It’s also the purported damage that Johnson may have done to the brand with his innovative strategies that certainly did not fit the needs nor wants of the consumer.

Now, I was pretty sanguine about Johnson taking the helm of JCP, hoping that the brand would fill the gap left by Sears (which has become nothing more than a Land’s End store combined with an upscale K-Mart.   K-Mart now specializes in a particular kind of ghettowear typified by the Sofia Vergara collection….but I digress….)  I’d hoped they would give some slightly hipper, somewhat better quality clothing than I could find at Target or Kohl’s.  Yet Johnson made some key missteps that left consumers confused about pricing and about who among the various consumer groups JCP sought to lure.  Here are in, no particular order (except for the first mistake) are six consumer-observered ways that Johnson mucked up:

First Mistake: getting rid of coupons nixes our dopamine high.   Johnson completely forgot that to the American Consumer, a coupon is like bargaining.   Since we can’t haggle with merchants, we like them to give us a percentage off.  The American Consumer Sentiment is that the price on the tag is always too high and that the coupon is the vehicle by which we will get the fair price.   If we find a missing button, or a lipstick stain, or a ripped hem, we ask for an additional 10 percent off–and usually get it.  Register jockeys are allowed to give that much in percentage off for damages.   Like Pavlov’s Dogs, we salivate when the coupons come in the mail or email, and studies have shown we get a dopamine boost from getting that coupon deal.  With his “fair and square” pricing scheme, Johnson took away the dopamine high we get from shopping.  Bad, Ron Johnson! Bad! Bad!

Second Mistake: spurning the Alfred Dunner Crowd, neglecting Boomers & Gen X  Johnson wanted to court the next generation of retail shopper into the store, so he set up Sephora outlets, brought in brands like Mango and Buffalo jeans.   But that did not make the Alfred Dunner retiree crowd happy.  Some pundits have been saying that it was the Boomers that Johnson let down–but it’s really the Alfred Dunner crowd who relied on JC Penney for their wardrobe staples and drastically slashed grandbaby and teen clothes.  By courting the young hipster demographic, Johnson left out the Boomers, Gap-gen (those too young for Woodstock/Viet Nam and too old for tattoos) as well as Gen Xers (who now have their own families.)  The brands that are now being hyped by JCP–such as Cosabella and Pearl Georgina Chapman of  Marchesa, and others–are more towards the customer who will shop the I <3 Ronson line, even though they are being marketed as “women’s” clothing.  This is another Target-like strategy that alienates anyone over the age of 21.

Third Mistake:  Replicating Target in their marketing collateral  I hadn’t realized that Johnson was a Target exec because most of the early press around Johnson emphasized his stellar role with Apple.   But the problem with Johnson was his strong ties to Target’s re-branding and re-launch as a cool place to buy staple clothing and some stylish housewares.  He even brought in Michael Francis, the dude who was responsible for Target’s mega-successful whimsical family ads!! (Francis left after 8 disastrous months)  I remember how friends and I sat and looked at the ads and scratched our heads, wondering if these ads were all part of a new Target campaign–since Target had just made some big changes in their flagship stores to include groceries and designer collaborations– or if something else was brewing .  It took awhile for it to register that the ads were for a revamped JC Penney.  That lag-time in ad recognition did not help.

Fourth Mistake:  The Martha Stewart collaboration and subsequent lawsuit which is still unresolved.  Not that a collaboration with Martha is a bad thing.  It’s just that with Martha, one has to check everything twice, with an attorney, to make sure there’s no misunderstandings in the fine print.  Martha made the jump from K-Mart to Macy’s pretty smoothly (after she could see K-Mart going to the ghetto dogs,) but she hasn’t been happy with Macy’s.  I can’t blame her.  Her goods are treated like they are second-class, tucked behind other brands such as Ralph Lauren, Kitchen Aide, and Fiestaware.  She hasn’t been the stand-out at Macy’s, and JCP offered her the shop-within-a-shop idea that they’d pulled off with Sephora.  JCP did not, however, bank on Macy’s reading the fine print and perhaps re-interpreting it to their benefit.  The lawsuit has cost JCP dearly in money they don’t have to spend on lawsuits that might end up being “frivolous.”

Fifth Mistake:  Target-like design collaborations   I recently received an email from JCP announcing the launch of collaborations with Michael Graves and Jonathan Adler’s Happy Chic.  Not impressive for a number of reasons other than that these are design collaborations iterative of those Target had with the same designers.  While we won’t be able to purchase teakettles with little birds on them, or super cool luggage shaped like cello cases (both designed by Graves.  I have the suitcase) at JCP, we will get some other Graves designed housewares that resemble those from Target.  And might be just as cheaply made as those at Target.  Not all of Graves’ goods were good nor durable and turned out to be wastes of money.  As for Adler’s design esthetic:  can well call it American Teen-Ager?  I’m not impressed with the doo-dads, geegaws and various knickknacks that are being trotted out.  Target has cut back on the tchochkies  probably because most people are watching their pennies and might have shelves full of bric-a-brac already.  I don’t envision Adler’s stuff selling all that well.

Sixth Mistake:  Minimizing the brands that worked   What happened to Nicole Miller?  and Bisou-Bisou?  and Jones New York?   or the A.N.A. line?  These were great brands that offered very nice crossover career-wear for the 30-55 age group.  The Worthington and St. John’s Bay lines were also pushed to the side.  SJB offered very nice, better quality staples (tees, jeans, sweaters) than Target, K-Mart or Sears.  Worthington offered great wardrobe builders for anyone working the all-black retail or other service industry jobs.   But if part of the strategy was to move away from Jobwear and Casualwear,  what about the slightly upper-scale brands?  The only one that got its own shop was Liz Claiborne, and not a lot of the LC pieces seem all that exciting (I haven’t purchased any.)  Also, JCP seems to be doing away with petites and talls.  Bad, bad move.  Not everyone can afford to take a $40 pair of Joe Fresh trousers and have them altered–which is what’s needed for a petite such as myself.  JCP will lose me as a loyal customer if the only stuff I can find in the petites section are Alfred Dunners.

Most retailers are struggling to get that middle bracket of consumers–those 30-55 or 60–back into stores.  This demo has been neglected for quite a while, and has taken to shopping at specialty retailers like Chico’s or Ann Taylor Loft, or online.  This middle bracket also likes coupons because they’ve grown up with them (and are pretty well conditioned to getting them.)  Ron Johnson did very little to court this group, did a lot to alienate the retirees, and went after the young folks with a half-assed, iterative marketing strategy that completely backfired.   I liked shopping in the stores, but I enjoy taking my time–lots of my peers don’t have that kind of time, and can only go by what they are seeing in ads and getting in the mail.  Johnson may have been successful with Apple–it was one line of products that already had a strong brand and a carved market niche.   Adding up all the mistakes made at JCP, including hiring Michael Francis,  it appears that Johnson was trying to turn JCP into Target Redux.

Consumers didn’t need another Target–and that became evident with every step that Johnson took to change JCP.  We need a fresh JCP, with new styles that walk somewhere between the classic and the trendy,  and new designs that are more than dorm-style patterns and boastful bric-a-brac.  We need our weekly dopamine fix with “deals” that don’t scream “fire sale” but do give us the price we believe is “fair and square.”  So what if that price comes in a circular on a Wednesday with a coupon only good on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.  We are used to this pattern, and with over-scheduled kids and two working parents, we don’t have time to allocate to any new pricing schemes.

The JCP board has announced it will be bringing back former CEO Mike Ullman, who was resoundingly criticized by activist board member William Ackman. If anything, this may stop the hemorrhaging for now. Over the long haul though, JCP is going to have to come up with something that will lure the mommy and middle customers away from online and back into the stores, while stimulating the younger generation. This is a big, big job that will require someone who can think both old and new simultaneously. I don’t know if there’s that kind of creativity in the C-suite these days, but I will be following this next move on the part of JCP just as closely as I did the tenure of Ron Johnson. It’s probably the most exciting adventure story in retail these days.

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Menswear Moment: Ryan Gosling shows you how to wear a velvet suit

2 Apr

Never has a man worn a velvet suit quite like Ryan Gosling for the New York premiere of  The Place Beyond the Pines

Ryan_Gosling_in_Velvet

It’s not just Ryan’s absolutely gorgeous Blond God-ness, but a few things about the suit that could make it work on any Man of  Style.  First, the color is great: subdued black.  A not-too-thin tie (a thin tie, or bow tie would have pushed it into the kitsch-y category.)  A basic white button-down, and simple black Oxford shoes.  Basically, Ryan’s followed the same advice given to women when we want to wear something that’s usually considered tres gauche:  make the accessories classic and tailored, not trendy.

If you get too trendy, you could end up like this:

"Do I make you horny, baby..."

“Do I make you horny, baby…”

One more very important thing about Ryan’s suit:  it’s expertly tailored.  Granted, it is a custom-made Gucci suit, but a good tailor can customize any suit–even a velvet one, if that’s what you want to go for.  It’s the tailored suit that sets apart the Man of Style from the…um….Man of Mystery…..

Shoe Trends Spring 2013: Three Fresh Styles to Spruce Up Your Wardrobe

22 Feb

For the first time in several years I’m saying a big WOW!  to the three trends that are showing up for Spring 2013.  They are so versatile and so much fun that I’m going to have to add one of each to my (growing) shoe wardrobe.

Here’s what we’ve got that’s fresh and new and will bring a bit of pop to your wardrobe (without the excessive yellow neon)

The block heel, round toe (this one is from Sole Society)   This is a classic shoe that I’ve always associated with Old Ladies Celine from Sole SocietyWho Lunch.  Oh, and with Coco Chanel.  While you can still get this style in the classic beige with black patent cap toe or in all black patent, it’s the new colors, like tan and citrine shown here, that make this style a must have for Spring.  It also showed up on the Fall 2013 runway shows, so a great pair could carry you for two fashion seasons.    The 1.5 inch heel and round toe make it both on-trend stylish and not a leg-breaker.

All-over floral pattern.  Yes, every season there’s some kind of floral patterned shoe, but this year’s floral pattern is Sinem from ShoeDazzle.comdifferent.  I’m not sure exactly what it is, but it’s most certainly different.   If you love your 6 inch heel platforms, you can find a floral patterned pair.  If you like wedges,  they’re in floral pattern too.  And flats!  Shop around, and you can find the exact pair that strikes your fancy.  My favorites are these gorgeous Asian brocade inspired, ankle strap pumps with a 3 inch heel from ShoeDazzle.com. (I know! I’m shocked too! more on ShoeDazzle in another post.) A shoe like this could be both dressy *and* casual, depending on what you want to do that day.

Got to say that since ShoeDazzle.com changed its stylist to Rachel Zoe, and is now varying the prices on their styles, their selection is so much better.  ShoeDazzle features several different styles with a variety of floral patters–all before the floral patters are hitting the mall!

And the final trend is the Ultra Sophisticated pointy toe pump–and yes! it is different this year!  The color range goes anywhere from silver and white to teal, sky blue, mint green, orange–the list is endless.  This is by far the largest Mary Patent pump from Audrey Brookecolor selection of pointy toe pumps I’ve seen in years!  There’s also a variety of embellishments, heel heights, sling-back, and D’Orsay styles.  The hot colors to consider are, of course, silver–but white is looking to be big, big for summer.  I’m usually thumbs down on white shoes (too many 80′s memories!) but if you wear white as your “pop of color” you could be making a big fashion statement.  My fave is this bright red patent stunner–the Mary patent pump from Audrey Brooke at DSW.com.  It seems that every spring I get a new pair of red patent shoes (ok, call it a “fetish”) and I have a feeling that this year isn’t going to be any different.  Only the heels will be 2 3/4 inches rather than 4 inches (for a change.)

Like this pair of old favorites from 5 years ago that I’ll still be wearing this year!

Me, a Fellini movie, and my fire engine red patent leather shoes on a Saturday night.

Me, a Fellini movie, and my fire engine red patent leather peep-toe pumps on a Saturday night.

Up here in New England, it’s supposed to snow this weekend, so before we get a dumped on again, hit the stores (or the Internet) and grab yourself one of these three fresh trends for this spring.  And if you can’t wear them outside, you can always wear them at home :)

Spring 2013 Trends: So, what’s with all the neon colors??

19 Feb

Well, if you’ve been to The Mall recently, you’ve noticed that the Spring clothing is starting to emerge.  Some of the upcoming trends that I talked about in January–such as emerald green–are starting to show up in some very interesting combinations (more in an upcoming post.)  HOWEVER, the most disturbing–and I mean major DISTURBING–trend is bloody awful neon colors!

WTF fashion industry?  Do I look like I work for a freakin’ road construction crew??  Who’s bright freakin’ idea was it to bring back a godawful fashion “trend” that was foisted upon us back in the ’80′s, thanks to a massive brain fart on the part of several new-in-the-day fashion designers?  I decided to scour the Ready-to-Wear runway shows from some of the biggest designers to see who we can hold responsible for the re-emergence of this fashion travesty….

First, for a Fashion refresher on What We Get in Our Malls: most of what we plebeian consumers get at our local not-so-upscale malls can sometimes be a hodgepodge of fast fashion for the teens and Alfred Dunner for the grandmoms.  In between we might have Coldwater Creek and Banana Republic, with the possibility of a few nice things cropping up in our local Kohl’s, Macy’s, or J.C. Penney (I usually bypass Sears, unless I’m looking for Lands End or retail workwear black staples.  The rest of their collections are pretty much just this side of K-Mart meh-wear.)  Some of the stuff we get in any of the stores I mentioned–that are not designer brand names like Ralph Lauren or Calvin Klein–is brought to us by brands that we might or might not recognize, and are designed by who-the-heck-knows…..

To try to pinpoint where all this neon came from, I scoured the Spring 2013 Ready-to-Wear collections of big name designers to figure out who the heck lost his/her mind in the design room.  From what I could see (and you can look for yourself at Style.com, most of the designs were great, lots of orange and navy from some designers, and lots of emerald green.  Those colors are indeed showing up, as are tropical and tribal prints.   From what I saw, before my eyeballs were about to be wrenched from my head, the biggest influence for neon is coming from Proenza Schouler (neon did not even figure into Pabal Gurung’s  Spring 2013 RTW collection, even though he blinded us with it in his Target capsule

Neon, and python, and prints, oh my!

Neon, and python, and prints, oh my!

collection.)  And the only reason I can see why some retailers could be swallowing this bright, ugly, fashion pill is that some of the current rock divas and actresses raved about it….

But I’d really like to see them wear it fo’ reelz….I bet they’d think twice.

It’s bad enough that retailers are plunking tutus down wherever there are girls’ departments, which makes it difficult for parents to try to stop their daughters from dressing like fairy princesses every day–but now they’re wanting the rest of us to look like glow-in-the-dark clowns who accompany the fairy princesses.

My sense is that somewhere,  there are some fashion buyers who believe this is a kind of techno street-style, influenced by the costume craziness of Tokyo (which, aside from the Electric Daisy Carnival, seems to be the only place that gets all neon costume crazy,) but my take on that way of thinking is that it is the province of those who spend their time on a particular street in one part of the world, and maybe haven’t read as many trend reports as I have.

The only thing that crosses my mind is that retailers are allowing their own 13-year-old kids to tell them what they like and want to see.  Or maybe some other groups of 13 to 18 year olds.  Or maybe there’s some weird belief that if they slap a designer’s name on it, or put a label from a much-loved retail brand on it that people will go for it, thinking that this is on trend and stylish.

When it is, in fact, nowhere near on trend nor stylish.  It’s not even street style. Maybe techno- rave style–but really?? Really???

Let’s all bypass the neon this spring and let it die a slow, painful, net loss incurring death in the deep-discount racks.

 

 

Learning about Steve Madden makes me like his shoes even more….

14 Feb

I didn’t know much about shoe mogul Steve Madden, other than that I really like his shoes.  I love the designs, don’t have to consider lopping off my little toe or enduring horrendous blisters just to wear them for one day.  I buy a pair,

Rediscovered love for Steve Madden. Perfect fi...

The iconic Steve Madden shoe (Photo credit: picmypurses)

they’re gorgeous, they fit perfect.  So when I saw this article on Madden in today’s New York Times, of course I was going to devour it immediately!

A few things about Madden I didn’t know:  I didn’t know he is only a few years older than me.  I didn’t know he had a drug and alcohol problem.  I didn’t know he served time for stock fraud.  Or that he saved the Betsey Johnson brand. And I had absolutely no idea that Martin Scorsese (my favorite filmmaker!) is directing a film titled “The Wolf of Wall Street” that features the story of Madden’s stock fraud case.

About all this stuff:  I don’t care!  I also don’t care about claims from Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga that he copied a couple of their designs for his shoes.  Because, honestly, we live in a world where everything is iterative, everything is a copy of a copy.  There is very little that is truly original in fashion design, and what is truly original these days is mostly stuff that people aren’t going to wear.    It’s clothing for the museums and design-architecture aficionados to ooh and aah over while the rest of us scratch our heads and say “I know that piece is influenced by the 18th century, but I’m not sure I could pull that off at the office….”

Or: “Damn! I love those shoes! but think I could walk in them?  oh, I don’t think so!”

See, that’s the thing:  big designers who cater to people who can afford them, don’t necessarily understand that there is a huge class (or classes) of people who want to look fashionable-stylish, yet cannot afford their stuff.  We can’t afford it cost wise, and we can’t afford to wear it to our jobs or out on dates or to arts council meetings or wherever we go because the darned things are a little too precious for us to purchase and wear.

We’d all love to be Carrie Bradshaw, but we’re not.  (maybe that’s why so many of us watched that show: we wanted to dress that way, but never had the jobs that Carrie did…..)

So, Madden really knows his customer when he says “For our market,  we are Christian Louboutin.”

Indeed!  It’s not that we don’t want Louboutins.  It’s that, even if we could afford them, our lifestyles don’t allow for the preciousness of Louboutins.  I can’t imagine having a $700 pair of shoes I could only wear once in a while.  And then if I did, I’d be afraid some schmuck might steal them (as someone did to Carrie when she attended a baby shower where everyone had to take their shoes off.)

Madden shoes, aside from the style and comfort factor, wear like crazy!  The are some of the best shoes in my arsenal when it comes to durability.  That’s what makes me keep going back too.  There’s nothing worse than spending good money on a good pair of shoes, only to have something go wrong with them in a short period of time.  I hate that!  I feel like I’ve wasted my money when that happens.  But I never waste my bucks when I buy a pair of Maddens!

In the article Madden frets, though, about the 20-something stylemakers (really?  who are they?) that don’t seem to be wearing his shoes.   To me,  the current generation of 20-somethings don’t seem to be all that into style (if Lena Dunham is one of their representative voices,)  and sometimes that sense of style isn’t quite like the group before that helped to propel Madden to popularity.  Although he does have Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen in his corner, and their sense of style –which does a lot to embrace fashion trends, high style, and a woman’s need to wear her clothes more than a few times. (I have a Stylemint membership and often buy from the club.  Love their stuff!)

So, really–perhaps it’s just that the current generation needs to wake up to his brand, not that they’re ignoring it.  And that may come in time.   But as long as I can wear heels without the potential of maiming or killing myself, I’ll be buying Steve Maddens. :-)

 

 

 

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