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Sunday Editorial: We are all Gloria Steinem Now

25 Mar

it doesn't matter who we are anymore, or our power in media. We all have media, we all have power. We are all leaders of the women's movement.....

Last Sunday, the New York Times ran two stories on Gloria Steinem, both in the Fashion & Style section.   Many of us wondered why these articles were relegated to the “women’s pages” of the Fashion & Style section, and there was some outcry to this effect.  Yet the world has changed greatly since Gloria Steinem, especially the media world, and that the singular rise of social media has given all women the power to be what only one was capable of attaining in a broadcast and paper media world.

The first–Gloria Steinem, A Woman Like no Other–gives a short overview of Steinem’s activism, notes the current situation with the Komen Foundation and the rise of social media.  Overall, the article questions why there isn’t one single leader for women with the unique combination of personal qualities that made Steinem an iconic leader of the women’s movement in the 60′s and 70′s.   There is the admission that there are now “feminisms” vs. one monolithic feminism, and that, in the 21st century, there is “a more inchoate sense of feminist leadership.”  Steinem herself does not see this as a negative, and states, in an email, how “It’s obviously a great sign of growth and success that the media no longer try to embody the bigness and diversity of the women’s movement in one person.”

Indeed!

The second article–My Roommate, Gloria–is a sweet puff piece on how Shelby Knox, while a college student, came to share a New York apartment with Steinem.   In the early years of this century, the press and many others, were ready to anoint Knox the next leader of the feminist movement.  However, it wasn’t necessarily to be.  Knox now works as director of women’s rights organizing for Change.org, and says she is happy to be writing press releases rather than being the subject of press releases.

Maybe this is a part of the “why we don’t have a single feminist leader these days” is that no young woman necessarily wants to be the sole voice of an entire movement.  The glut of mainstream media keeps the camera in one’s face far longer than it should be, and probes the  personal lives or public figures in a manner that might have been considered inappropriate 40 or 50 years ago (think Clinton vs. JFK.)

The 24-hour news cycle has perhaps taught us that only very strong, or very narcissistic, people survive the glare of the modern-day spotlight with their psyches in tact.

Yet the other aspect of all this media is that we have a thriving “people’s media” landscape on the Internet.  The Voice of the People, channelled through various social media platforms, what marketers bemoaned with the Motrin Moms, has become the force for change that got the Komen Foundation to back down from their anti-Planned Parenthood initiative, Rush Limbaugh to lose face for his attempt to shame Sara Fluke, and is currently bringing shame to the Sanford, Florida police department in the Trayvon Martin murder case.

What started–around the time of Shelby Knox–as a “disreputable” and  troubling form of “new journalism,” the blog, the forum, the chatroom, and other forms of what we now called social media, are the places where groups rally around those who first hear the message, then spread the message.  We hear about protests against Limbaugh, and we spread the links to friends on Facebook and Twitter, who spread the links to their friends.  We write about the incidents on our blogs, which are now picked up by Google, which leads to readers that then click the links to other stories or petitions and get others to act.

In the 21st century, with our dispersed and populist media landscape, we have important stories–stories that require activism to create change–dispersed and made viral like never before.  The populist media that so many feared might lead to something bad, is actually forcing change for the good–and is bringing awareness to women’s issues that most of us felt were resolved with the women’s rights struggles of the 70′s.

So maybe, in the 21st century, it’s not the monolithic leader, the attractive and photogenic young woman—a Gloria Steinem– who becomes the image and voice of the woman’s movement, but all of us who use social media platforms to spread information, who are already the voices of a new women’s movement.  Perhaps we are, as the NYT noticed–in the “inchoate” phase of a new, stronger women’s movement that better represents the needs of women across the country.

All that’s needed, right now, are women who spread the word to other women.  It’s the groundswell that demonstrates the power of women.

Maybe at some time, when we are confronted again with situations where only one leader can speak,  one leader will emerge.   Yet that might not even be the case any more.  We may simply have women like Sara Fluke, who have to speak for us in special instances.  There is no doubt that our world has changed because of social media, and so, the ways in which leadership emerges in this new landscape will be different.

Only time will tell.

Thom Browne Men’s Fall-Winter 2012/2013 Collection: WTF??

28 Jan

After years and years of women’s designers causing so many of us to ask “WTF is *that*?  I can’t wear that thing!”  Brooks Brothers’ designer Thom Brown has come up with a collection for men that has us asking the same question…

I swear this was styled by Uncle Fester Addams

This is a prime example of the major problem with “designers that so many of us reasonable human beings have with them. So many seem to live in a precious bubble where everyone tells them they’re artists and what they’re doing is “revolutionary” or whatever that they lose sight of the small things: like, practicality. Like nobody’s really going to wear padded shoulders that high. We already did that in the 1980′s. Over, done with, move on. As for this look….:

Browne apparently attended the Alexander McQueen retrospect at the Met over the summer, and afterward was frightened out of his wits by a Lily Pulitzer summer collection (pick a year, those are her colors.) He discovered those high laced lumberjack boots at that great camping supply store in Northampton, and must know that *anybody* can buy scads of brass safety pins at a little shop  in the Garment District for next to nothing!

My friend Jen, who posted a link to this pictorial on Regretsy.com wondered what the models might be thinking that they’re faces are so stern.

I’d hazard a guess that they’re concerned for their modeling careers….

Maybe if there was something *original* in the collection (well, maybe that overblown 1920′s football player look *is* original,) or if it had some kind of story to go along with it, I might be able to place it in a certain context and perhaps see it as artistic expression (but that’s a stretch.)

Sad thing, too, is that I doubt there’s even a club scene to support this kind of look these days. So much of it seems kind of retro Front 242–the black and white stuff anyway. Yet I don’t think there’s that much of a fun, drugged-out, over the top, kinda gothy-industrial, club scene, even in New York, these days. Maybe small parties, but is a guy going to shell out tons of money for an ensemble he can only wear to the premiere of the next John Waters’ film??

Seriously, honey badger! why do that when all one needs to do is hit up Salvation Army and a place where they sell scads of brass safety pins. Really! It’s not all that difficult to copy this look. Unless you’re looking for those embroidered ducks. Then again, a good sewing machine can make those for you too….

I don’t know whether to be horrified or laugh…..

Then again, if I see this stuff in Hot Topic next year, I’ll probably wish I’d been on the bandwagon.  Or not.

More Browne madness at Black Rainbow Extraordinaire magazine

Update: after posting a link to this post on Facebook, one of my friends said the shoulder pads were reminiscent of David Byrne.   Don’t know how I missed that one.   However, this jogged my memory of football motifs and I came up with the Marx Brothers’ film “Horsefeathers.”    I’m sure if I continued to parse out this collection I’d find more kitsch-y pop culture references.  If I’d seen something like this collection emerge from the streets or clubs, yes, I’d say fashion and I’d say fun.  Emerging from some guy’s crazy brain?  Not so much.  More like comedy, less like fashion.

Fashion documentaries tell stories about ageing, impact of images, and self-esteem

15 Dec

There are three great documentaries out now, or coming out in the very near future, that frankly discuss the impact of our youth-obsessed culture on women’s sense of self and well-being.   The first of these fascinating documentaries is About Face, where legendary models Jerry Hall, Isabella Rosellini, Marisa Berenson, Carmen Dell-Orefice and Paulina Porizkova discuss everything from getting older and getting plastic surgery to the insanity of the modeling industry:

The next doc comes from the Media Education Foundation (located in Northampton, MA.) In Killing Us Softly 4: Advertising’s Image of Women media critic Jean Kilbourne looks at recent images of women from magazines and the impact those images have on women’s self-esteem:

And finally, one you may have already heard of because of Oprah Winfrey’s endorsement of it and subsequent airing on OWN is Miss Representation. Writer and director Jennifer Siebel Newsom posits that mainstream media’s representation of women in “limited and disparaging portrayals” hinders women’s ability to achieve positions of leadership and undermines the average woman’s ability to feel powerful herself. Siebel presents some shocking stats (65% of women and girls have disordered eating behaviors) as well as interviews with girls and women across a wide spectrum of those in the public eye (Katie Couric, Rosario Dawson and Nancy Pelosi to name a few):

Nowadays, it’s hard to turn one’s face away from media: it’s not just our televisions any more. It’s also on our computers and our smartphones. We carry media with us daily, and marketers and advertisers, who do not know where or on which device to target us, are looking for more and more ways to grab our attention–without thinking of the consequences of the images and messages they are sending. Nowhere is this more evident in the billion-dollar a year fashion industry. Women and girls must find ways to work together, to use media to our advantage, and begin to show the fashion industry that we want to see better representation of who *we* are, not just idealized versions of who they desire women to be for their business models.

Crossdressing male captures lucrative women’s lingerie modeling contract

14 Dec

I was totally shocked–but perhaps shouldn’t be–when Fashionista reported that crossdresser Andrej Pejic has been chosen to model the “Mega Push-Up Bra” for Dutch chain store Hema.

Come on people!  Does the fashion world hate women’s bodies so much that they have to pick a guy to model lingerie??  It’s bad enough that most female models out there are tall, incredibly thin, and virtually breastless.  Hema couldn’t find a female model who was small enough?  What is Hema trying to say with this ad?  Are they trying to earn their hipness cred with a certain circle of people who ultimately prefer men over women?  Really?

One of the commenters on Fashionista believes Hema’s choice to be “revolutionary.”   And I don’t doubt that the word “revolutionary” will appear in every single article written about Hema’s model choice.

But what Hema is really telling us is that a guy is a better than a woman to represent their women’s lingerie line .

Really?  REALLY??

And does it take total degradation of women and the elevation of women impersonators for fashion advertising to be “revolutionary?”  If so, the fashion industry is in far more trouble than they know…

Here are two images from the campaign.

I don’t care how “beautiful” he is, he’s a guy! fer cryin’ out loud!  I don’t care if he’s a crossdresser either.  Over the years I’ve had some great crossdresser friends.  But my god! we don’t need a crossdresser standing in for women in advertising for women’s lingerie.  It sends the wrong message (yes, advertising sends messages beyond “buy our lingerie”) and, ultimately, works to denigrate the true female form.

Perhaps the real “revolution” would be using real women in advertising, not faux women.

Just a thought……