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The Guys of Mad Men Season Six: Ban-Lon, Bow Ties and Bulges

4 Apr

All right…so by now we’ve all heard about John Hamm’s trouser troubles,* and while that is for some of us a lovely, period-perfect distraction, there’s a lot more to Mad Men’s Season Six fashions then…well….

As with each season, costume designer Janie Bryant has done an incredible job this season by bringing the cast into a mid-1960s mod aesthetic, while letting the character’s personalities shine through (literally and figuratively.) The first thing I noticed in the Season Six promo pics that are circulating is the variety of bow-tie styles in Men’s Eveningwear

the many styles of bow tie ties...

the many styles of bow tie ties…

In this pic, we’ve got both modified (or narrow) butterfly bow ties, and traditional thistle bow ties with pointy ends.  Obviously, these are hand-tied and not clip-ons.  No one in this bunch would be caught dead with a clip-on.  Not while Roger Sterling’s around! (here’s a little bow tie history from Wikipedia.) Besides, this is the 60′s and no man looking to advance in a high-profile company would be caught dead in anything but a tie-it-yourself bow tie at a black tie event.

If you’re at all interested in knowing the ins and outs of tying a bow tie, here’s some instructions on how to do it from the Cordial Churchman (a custom tie maker)

Unlike today,  there really wasn’t much of a need for a guy to stand out at a black-tie affair (unless he was young and going for that hipster vibe) mostly because he could stand out in a crowd on any given day of the week. In the ’60′s, men emerged as fashionable peacocks in a way that hadn’t quite been seen in the 20th Century…

Ban-Lon shirts and bulges were de riguer for the hip peacock of the '60's.

Ban-Lon shirts and bulges were de riguer for the hip peacock of the ’60′s.

A few design notes here….Kenny Cosgrove is sporting a thin tie (perfect!) while Stan Rizzo is hiding his handsomeness under a beard (!?!) and a Ban-Lon shirt.  Here’s a little history of the dreaded Ban-Lon shirt.  What I remember most about the was the feel of the shirt rather than the style.  It had something of a plastic look to it, and I will always associate it with what looked to my little kid’s eyes as Dadwear. In fact, Stan’s slightly high-water pants–oddly, a popular length at that time–also remind me of Dadwear.

Aside from Stan’s Dadwear, the menswear styles on each character draws a clear line between Management in suits and white shirts (the only nod to hipster style in Cosgrove’s thin tie) and Creative (who are dressed…well….in a way that expresses their creativity, shall we say…)  It’s a fascinating picture when looked at from that perspective.

The beard though–that one’s got me a bit confused.  Beards are more frequently associated with the 70′s than with the mid to late 60′s.  If Stan’s going to end up the inspiration for the Brawny paper towel guy look, then he’s nailed it.  Maybe that’s where that look is going (quick! hand the man a plaid shirt please!)

 

(H/T to Tom + Lorenzo for the pics and dish!)

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Target + Neiman Marcus Collection Revealed Today!

1 Dec

Twenty-four top designers. A total of sixty different items ranging from hip flasks  and stationery to men’s sweaters and holiday dresses for women and girls. The Target + Neiman Marcus Collection is an impressive group of items  for both holiday giving and….well…personal gift giving (if you know what I mean.)  While things like cookie cutters and furry vests aren’t my thing, there are several other pieces I’m looking forward to perusing at my local Targets –there are two of them near me.  Whether or not either of them will have the items I’m interested in is one thing, but the simple fact that, unlike Target’s other designer collections, some of the items I like come in my size is pretty impressive.  Here are my Top 6 picks

 

Sharon Stone sports retro ladylike ensemble for charity event: fab or drab?

5 Nov

I don’t know what Matt Whitfield at Yahoo! OMG was thinking when he said this outfit made Sharon Stone look like a “granny”….he apparently doesn’t know a lot about fashion history, for one thing.  For another, he might be one of those guys that, no matter what a mature woman wears, she’s wrong.  It’s a prejudice that’s common among some young fashion commentators, who have little understanding of fashion and very, very little appreciation for mature women.  However, while I’m concerned about the attitude of know-little boobs,  I’m more interested in what makes Stone’s look work for her, and what could make it a disaster……

What works in this look: 

1. This look is straight from the Runways of 1957, when both Balenciaga and Givenchy first experimented with the sack  dress.  They both employed gray in their designs, as well as bucket-shaped hats.  So, Stone’s look is quite 1957, replete with Kelly style bag and gloves, which were a common accessory for ladies in the 50′s.

2. Speaking of accessories, all the accessories, except for the shoes, are in keeping with the 1957 vibe.  Brown is also an excellent color to contrast with neutral gray.

3.  The shoes are modern, but keep the texture theme that we see in the bag, which adds a bit of quiet pop to the look.

4.  We can see blue toenails–modern.  But what nail color.  Red perhaps?  That would make it very 50′s, as does her red lipstick, an appropriate color with gray. There’s no sparkle in the dress to merit a pale lip shade.

5. Gray is a “in” color this Fall fashion season.

Vintage looks are great!  We used to appreciate when someone put together a vintage look right down to the accessories.  Nowadays, not so much.  We’re not into the matchy-matchy thing, which was a custom back–in-the-day,  so matchy-matchy has the potential to make anyone, of any age look oldy-oldy.

What  doesn’t work with this look:

1.  Her tan contrasts a bit too much with the hat, which appears to be a wool felt–very winter-ish.

2.  I have a personal problem with the lack of stockings.  However, I understand that wearing stockings and closed toe pumps would have made the look *too* retro.

3.  The eye makeup.  Not good . It’s a current runway look, but not particularly flattering on Stone.

4.  Would a red patent bag worked better?

5.  Perhaps a modern-retro necklace vs a fur collar?

Overall, the look works for Stone, and she presents as a sophisticated, stylish woman over 40.  It’s definitely retro matchy-match in some respects, but overall far better than some other looks Stone’s tried to pull off over the years:  looks which were far too trendy,  thus ended up trashy.   Critics, though, are never happy with some stars, and I think Stone, who comes with some serious “sexy” baggage, has had a tough time of getting kudos from fascist fashionists.  The look is, though, a fabulous retro/vintage/costume/haute couture look.  As fashion is supposed to be fun and a personal choice, Stone could be expressing her love of vintage looks with this, and maybe saying that vintage dressing is fun and fashionable at any age….

What do you think of Stone’s retro look?

Fall to Winter Fashion Trend: the Fur Vest

2 Nov

We started seeing the fur vest fashion trend in 2010 (if you don’t believe me, look here) but no matter how atrocious, it doesn’t want to go away.  What’s with this trend that it’s suck around for two seasons after it should have died an ignominious death?  Perhaps it’s the faux fur vest that’s helped the trend survive well past its prime.  Yet here it is again, in both pricey and not-so-pricey varieties:

A raccoon and silver fox vest from Cassini: $1,995. (Raccoon? can I bring in my own pelt??) (for more on high-end fur vests see this pictorial in Elle.com)

Faux Fur vest by Liz Claiborne for JC Penney: $50 (for more see JCPenney.com)

My take on this trend:  OH GOD MAKE IT STOP!!  This is the third year of this awful, awful trend that more than likely started back in the 60′s with Sonny and Cher…..

It wasn’t good back then, and it’s not good now. Why does it keep coming back? Is it because there are a lot of rich women in the cold cities across the country who don’t want to get attacked by PETA activists but still want to flaunt their riches in fur? And the faux versions are there for those of us who are not rich pretend that we are cavewomen? Please! Enough of the fur vest! Move on already! Give us something new–just not a new fur vest design. Stick a fork in it–it’s done.

What’s Happening Now: Tokyo Fashion Week

17 Oct

While I missed several other fashion weeks (including New York!) I’ve caught up with the middle of Tokyo Fashion Week!  If you’re most interested in who’s been showing there, here’s a link to the full show schedule.

What I find odd is how what Women’s Wear Daily considers “some of the best looks” from the “sidewalks and streets.”  yes, a lot of very cute, even quirky, school-girl looks, even on some women who are well beyond the school-girl demographic.  To me, this seems kind of cliché and something that we’ve seen from Japan for several (oh, 10 or more)  years now.

It’s like the “dominatrix” look–been there, done that, can we see something new?

There were, however, some great looks from the street that went beyond the school-girl or anime refugee look and showed looks that were new and fun….click the thumbnails for a larger view

(photos courtesy of Women’s Wear Daily )

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