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Saint Laurent Menswear chooses female model Saskia de Brauw as its newest “face”

27 Nov FireShot Screen Capture #107 - 'Google Image Result for http___ecx_images-amazon_com_images_I_51E76MRX43L__SL500_SS500__jpg' - www_google_com_imgres_start=135&hl=en&cl

OK…there are a lot of women who love a fey looking young man…but isn’t having Saskia de Brauw (most recently one of the faces for Chanel Spring 2012 ad campaign) going  just a tad overboard??

I mean….REALLY now….

OK, I can’t throw too many stones here.  I used to do the Boy George/garconne thing back in the ’80′s ( the term goes back to the 20′s) when I was much thinner and wasn’t worried about people questioning my gender preferences, but, hey, no matter how cute a woman can be even when she’s dressed like a guy, I’m not sure she can ever be quite as cute even if she can be just as slim.  Take a look at sweet, fey Leonardo di Caprio back when he played sweet, fey Jim Carroll in The Basketball Diaries.

Even though I get what Saint Laurent creative director Hedi Slimane is going for (yeah, yeah, gender bending and all that other stuff that I’m sure only uber-creative types can relate to,) personally, I’d prefer to see a new Leo in this ad campaign,  Lord knows there are enough of them around.  Fey boys don’t fade away–some actually grow up to be beautiful men.

Still, it makes me wonder what the point is of the gender-bending.  Is it all a bunch of shock and awe, shock and awe, let’s-upset-the-bourgeoisie?  Or does it have something to do with a nod to those  people for whom gender-bending isn’t just a modeling pose?

It also raises the issue of whether or not an ad campaign is selling an item to a group of people or if it is functioning as a form of art.  The photos in the Saint Laurent ad campaign are indeed gorgeous, and artistic, and evoke Jim Carroll as much as they do 60′s British films about boys’ public schools and Warhol’s Factory.   OK.  Cool.  But can’t we leave behind the 20th century references and tropes.  Or has our pop culture hit a point where nothing is new and everything is iterative?

Oh, my….

(hat tip to this post on Fashionista)

About these ads

Because nothing makes me say “Wow! I really want that hat!” like a millinery show with nude models….

20 Nov

Almost died laughing when I read about British milliner Robyn Coles, and why she decided to feature her first collection on nude m models….

…..As a new designer I want to get people to see my work and now. I hope that people who look at the show like the light-hearted choice of nudity, appreciate the different forms of the human body and above all – like my work. It was about getting as many people there as possible. Furthermore I like to think that it highlights the ease of accessories in that you don’t have to be a certain shape or size to wear a hat. It is always good to see diversity on the catwalk, and accessories is the best way to do that…”   Coles told the ladies of Fashionista

Ok…I’ll admit I have a soft spot for millinery because my Mom was a milliner way back in the 1930′s and early 40′s.  But I know for sure that she never had to model the designs in the nude (neither did I when I sold lingerie!)   Although I admit that Coles has a point when she says that one does not have to be a certain size or weight to look great  in a great hat.  It does take a bit of style and panache to pull it off, but it doesn’t take a size 0 figure (or walking around nude in public) that’s for sure.

If you’d like to see the whole slide show, here it is (and it’s NSFW)

Which reminds me….I’ve started making my own accessories, including winter hats.  I’ve crocheted for years, and figured this would be a good time to put my talents to work and make some stuff to compliment my winter wardrobe.

Robyn Lawley, New Plus Size Model for Ralph Lauren, is anything but….

11 Oct

Meet Robyn Lawley,  the Australian-born beauty who is the first plus-size model for Ralph Lauren, and proof that the fashion industry has totally lost its mind if it considers Ms. Lawley to be plus-size……


To most women, Ms. Lawley, who is a size 10 and measures 36D-32-43 according to Wikipedia,looks like a normal woman.  She has boobs, her skin is soft, her hair is beautiful and silky.  She is *not* a frightfully thin stick figure with bones protruding from her back and ribcage.  So what is it that makes her “plus size” other than the size 10?  Could it be that she’s 6 ft 2 inches tall?!?!

Essentially, Ralph Lauren is telling us that, to qualify as plus size, a woman must be as tall as a man and have boobs.  I bet if we shrunk her down to the height of the average runway model, her weight would drop as well and she wouldn’t be any different than the average runway model.

No wonder so many women have a difficult time fitting into styles by certain designers.  If a size 10 is predicated on a woman being over 6 ft tall, then that leaves a whole lot of us wearing dresses down to our ankles and sleeves flopping over our hands (no wonder I can never get anything from Ralph Lauren to fit my dimensions!)

Honestly, what in god’s name is wrong with fashion?  Does it really and truly despise real women, or is it some sort of strange, narcissistic world designed by men who want to see most women re-made in their image? When a plus-size model is so beyond the height of the average woman, and a cross-dresser is considered “beautiful” enough to model for a line of women’s bras, we got some serious trouble with an industry that makes billions of dollars per year off women’s purchases.

That’s the part that galls me the most:  women are perhaps the primary purchasers of fashion, yet we are, apparently, the most disrespected by the industry.  We are left off runways, left out of ads, dismissed by the big brands and are generally treated like doormats.

Sometimes I think of the fashion industry as if it were a bad boyfriend–and, seriously, ladies, do we really need to continue to take this kind of crap?

I’m not so sure…..

What do you think of Robyn Lawley’s plus size status?

Five Ways Fashion Magazines Are Failing Women Readers

1 Oct
Glamour (magazine)

Glamour loses points for more sex and celebs but gains points for real-women narratives

Most of us have a something of a love-hate relationship with fashion magazines.  I think I *loved* them until I was in my early 30′s and noticed that much of the clothing in the magazines was way out of my price range and/or nothing that I could wear to work.  Not to mention that I was starting to notice my “ageing out” of the fashion mag demographic.

Boy! If I thought I was ageing out of the fashion mag demographic when I was in my 30′s, what the heck am I doing reading the things again in my 50′s!  Well, turns out that that I re-developed an interest in fashion because my innate fashion sense was turning towards the frumpy.  Now,  though, I can look at the mags with a bit more of a selective and critical eye than I did years ago, when the photos might have sent me into a spell of pathetic moaning about my perceived fatness.  I know now that it’s not necessarily me with a fatness problem inasmuch as it is the models in the magazines with, in many instances, dysfunctional thinness problems.

Case in point: when the editors at Vogue author an article about full-figured women and consider a 34D to be a full figure…well….let’s just say they’re not living in the same world as the rest of us.

I know that disappointment in fashion magazines isn’t an age demographic thing.  In fact, even the one of the writers at Lovelyish, a blog for the 18-24 set, feels fashion magazines are losing relevance to the audience they are supposed to be serving.

So, I’ve come up with a list of  Five Ways Fashion Magazines are failing the same people they say they are serving (and these are in no particular order):

1.  No real, practical fashion information :  It’s all ads, ads, ads.  Then, pretty photos.  A few designer names thrown in here and there.  What does that tell us about fashion?  Not a heck of a lot, really.  Some of the things we never see in the stores, and some we wonder why we see them in the stores.  Articles written like advertising copy.  Lots of fluff and no substance.

2. Models are too thin or too young (or both):  A lot of young women aren’t stick thin.  A lot of older women throw their hands up in disgust looking at all those puffy little mini-skirts, wondering what’s left for us to wear.  Let’s see lots of different kinds of women, of different ages, and ethnic backgrounds, and hairstyles, and….and….

3.  Too many celebrities!  Ok, when I’m reading People StyleWatch, I expect celebrities.  But I really do not care about (fill in the celebrity name) and her struggle with weight, or her struggle with (fill in the blank.)  Celebrities are people who are paid to look good. We are NOT paid to look good.  Celebrity lives are as irrelevant to ours as a dog’s life is to a cat’s.  This is where Glamour is doing something different by publishing  more compelling stories about the lives of real women, such as this story of four generations of prostitutes in one woman’s family, and how her mother stopped it.

4. Clothes and accessories are too expensive:  a $360 pair of Kate Spade pumps?  Really?  I’m lucky if I can afford an $89 pair of Jessica Simpsons.  Maybe this is all about “aspirational marketing,”  but what are we supposed to “aspire” to?  To be rich?  To be able to have a credit card with enough of a credit limit that will allow us to spend thousands and thousands on clothes?  Really?  Um, no.  By pushing us into debit, or making us feel like losers because we can’t afford $360 pumps is not helping us.

5.  No Fashion Industry Information:  Fashion is a billion dollar a year industry that makes most of those billions off of women.  Yet we know very little about which companies are publicly traded on the stock market, and which are privately owned; which store chains have changed fashion leadership in their marketing departments or even at the CEO level; why a manufacturer may have moved its factory from China to India, and if this will affect prices in the store; and any number of business-related news that has a direct effect on prices, styles, colors, materials, etc. that we see in the places we shop.  Heck, we don’t even know which stores have instituted green initiatives or who have stopped the odious practice of shredding returns or other items that don’t sell (rather than donating them to charity.)  It’s our dollar–and our heads are not so pretty that we can’t understand industry information.  We’re just not getting it in our magazines.

Sweet 16 is still too young for the runway…and for other fashion work too.

14 Sep
Models on the catwalk

Models on the catwalk (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

For several years now (and maybe it was about time) there have been huge debates about the appropriate age for runway models.  Over the years, fashion shows have featured models as young as 14, while fashion photographers have used models as young as 12.  There is no doubt that our culture–and our fashion industry–has an obsession with youth.   But there is a whole lot more to why the fashion industry likes to use underage models, and today, The New York Times’ Room for Debate section features five noteworthy essays on the subject penned by a psychologist, a former model now author, the founder of the Model Alliance, and a professor of pop culture and gender sociology.

These essays are all fine and dandy–actually some are more than just fine, and get at some of the troubling roots of why the insistence on underage models.  Let’s face it, if you’ve ever worked with teenagers, you’d know how they don’t usually know their workplace rights, are unaware of OSHA regulations, and even if they grumble about working conditions, are quickly put in their place by either bullying or emotionally manipulative older people.    It’s far easier to get a star-struck teen-ager to accept a cheap piece of swag for payment than it might be a 20-year-old who seeks a paycheck to help pay for college.

Yet the runway isn’t the only place where young people face exploitation.  Take the local mall for instance and some of its stores that are so popular with teens that they are clamoring for jobs.   As I understand it, one mall retail giant, know for its semi-pornographic pictures of beautiful young men, has what are called “floor model” positions.  These are usually held by very young people (between 16 and 18) who are there to walk around in the brand’s clothing and tidy up.   They are paid base minimum wage, and are expected to be wearing the brand’s overpriced clothing.  A week’s salary might cover the cost of one pair of jeans.

Is this fair?  Hardly.  Yet most don’t protest the working conditions or the low rate of pay.  They are the hopefuls who hang around and believe at a low-paying, below entry-level job will lead to a sales position.   Or at least be a resume credential with some cachet.  If they quit, there are so many others to take their place.

And the same may be said of modeling.  There is always another  young girl out there who wants to be part of the Big Show, who’s willing to overlook any kind of exploitation and labor violations for that opportunity.

What, then, about the parents?  Yes, good parents will be great advocates for their children, but what if the parents are just as start-struck as the children? or are more than willing to overlook exploitation if it means their child will get ahead of others?  Remember: not all parents are as caring about their child’s welfare as they should be.

Overall, the Fashion world is one that relies on young women to sell their designs to other young women–and not necessarily to older women (by older, I mean over 30.  Forget about anyone over 40.)  Older women are seen as a fashion lost cause, unwilling to go the distance and jump the hurdles of anorexia and Botox to meet some arbitrary beauty ideal that’ s been concocted out of some fashion designer’s imagination.  It’s not just that though:  it’s also that many of us simply do not have the time nor the flexibility to put on the costumes that are trotted out every season.  Women of the 21st century are no longer idle little things with husbands or paramours that want us to look perfect for their glorification (although there are certainly still many “Bergdorf Blondes” out there.)  Many of us not only work, but have our identities clearly figured out by the time we’re in our late 30′s or into our 40′s.  Sure, we like to not look like fashion victims from another time period, but we also don’t want to look like starving waifs in what might feel like an inappropriate costume for a new production of Peter Pan…..

And while I don’t anticipate any major changes in attitudes towards women by the fashion industry in the near future, I am glad that there are some strong voices out there who are raising red flags and are looking out for the welfare of young women who walk the runways every fashion season.  We can only hope that, eventually, the tide will turn.

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