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Sunday’s Fashion Lesson with Bill Cunningham….

12 Mar

If you don’t know who Bill Cunningham is, you should….especially if you want to learn anything about how to cultivate a

poster for the documentary "Bill Cunningham New York"

discerning eye for fashion and style.  Not to mention the lovely little lessons on the history of 20th century fashion that Cunningham weaves into his weekly fashion videos that are featured on the front of the Sunday  New York Times website

Cunningham has been a  photojournalist for The New York Times since at least the 1970′s–prior to that he was a fashion journalist for Women’s Wear Daily and a Harvard drop-out.  He has been taking candid street photographs of fashionable people for close to 50 years now.  While some might consider his photos “artless” it’s not art that Cunningham is looking to create.  Rather, he documents the ways in which people of all sorts interpret the fashion of their day, as much as he chronicles the evolutions of fashion styles….

For instance, in yesterday’s short titled “Sun Spot”, Cunningham views Paris Fashion Week, the last week of  shows for the Fall-Winter 2012 fashions.  He notes how much yellow he sees on women attending the shows (working women, many still clad in always-in-fashion black) and in the flowers dotting the Parisian landscape.  Cunningham notes that fashion is all a jumble right now, but that women nowadays want fashion that not only fits their lifestyle, but also fashion that they choose and pay for themselves.  In this “modern age” we are not the “decorative women” of the post-WWII 1950s,  who were festooned to represent the affluence of their husbands and who, in their leisure could be nothing more than decorative objects (much to the consternation of a lot of women.)

“When someone else is paying, then you buy something frivolous,” Cunningham says, ” When you’re paying for it yourself, you think twice.”

And that, to me is what marks the difference between adolescent fashion and grown-up fashion.  For adolescents (and the chronological age is variable) there’s spending a whole lot of money for something that is trendy and may look downright awful.  Grown-ups, however, don’t have that particular level of disposable income that so many young people might have…..

So, the young people become the frivolous fashionistas, which, IMO, is what’s plaguing a lot of fashion right at this moment.  We don’t have enough fashion for grown-ups who work, who raise families, who aren’t lounging around sipping smoothies and exercising all day in order to keep their “girlish figures.”

I love, though, that Cunningham is so delightfully sanguine and believes that fashion will turn around and reflect what women need.   This is another part of why I love to watch his photos and listen to him every week: in a fashion world that seems to be constantly unforgiving of women and women’s lives, Cunningham situates fashion in historical context, and, right now, reminds us of the upheaval that may indeed shake out for the best.

In the meantime, I’m going to continue to watch Bill’s weekly videos and take his fashion and style recommendations…..

BTW, anybody seen my yellow scarf…… :-)

New York Fashion Week rolls on with full slate of video simulcasts, apps, and more

10 Feb

Sorry for being a bit remiss in posting about New York Fashion Week.  My intention was to actually go to NYC for a

Nicki Minaj and Anna Wintour size up a collection at Fashion Week

couple of days and do something like an outsider report (naturally, as I have no invites, so I would definitely be “outside.”)  Given the vicissitudes of my current lack of fortune, travel was well-nigh impossible.  So like a lot of y’all I’m watching from a distance (most frustratingly unfortunately.)

Lots of shows will be simulcast on iPad or on the good ole Internet.  Here’s the New York Times Schedule for the week, listing some of the bigger shows.

Style.com will be simulcasting Jason Wu’s show today at 1p.m  I’ll be very interested to see what Wu has for Fall 2012, esp. since his collection for Target of which I was rather under-whelmed.

Most of Target’s capsule collections are geared towards the very young and very thin.  :-\   Which leaves the rest of us with their usual blah basics.

Vogue also has its own coverage, as does Women’s Wear Daily.  I’m keeping a particular eye on the Ready to Wear collections, which are closest to what we might see in the stores for Fall.

There are also a bunch of apps for iPad and Android, tie ins with Facebook, etc., etc.  It’s pretty much media overload for anyone who isn’t attending Fashion Week.

But there’s nothing like actually being there, and actually getting a bit of swag from here and there, or taking advantage of other little things that might be offered to The Great Uninvited.

Oh, well, maybe I’ll be there for the next one….

(photo h-t Mercedes Benz Fashion Week)